The island
Mollyholmen. Four hundred and twenty metres of black rock in the Norwegian Sea, inside the Arctic and seventy minutes out from Bodø.

The rock is gneiss, smoothed by ice and painted with rust-coloured lichen. Nothing grows on it taller than heather. The highest point is fourteen metres above the tide and the lighthouse stands on it.
To the east, on a clear day, the mainland mountains make a jagged white line. To the north, the Lofoten Wall. To the west there is nothing until Greenland.
- Position
- 67°06′N 13°18′E
- Length
- 420 m
- Highest point
- 14 m
- The light
- Fl(2) W 20s 19m 16M
- Trees
- None
The chart
Three kinds of light
Aurora season
September to March
Dark early, and for a long time. Clear nights bring the lights. For three weeks in December the sun does not rise at all, and noon is a long blue hour.
The quiet months
April, May and August
The sea birds come back. The light stretches. Fewer boats, lower rates, the island mostly to yourself.
Midnight sun
Late May to mid July
The sun goes round instead of down. People row at two in the morning because they can. The lofts have blinds.


How a lighthouse became a hotel
It took one hundred and sixteen years, most of them spent keeping ships off the rock.
The Light is lit: a red iron tower on the highest point of the rock, and a keeper's house the sea later took back.
The last keeper leaves. The lamp is automated and the rock is left to the cormorants.
We take on the lease, and spend the first summer doing nothing but measuring the wind.
The Light is restored. New lantern glass, eighty-four steps relaid, the watch room made into one bedroom.
The Long House goes up on its steel legs. The cabins come out by barge, two at a time.
Lillemor finishes her sea trials in October. Molly goes on watch.
The first guests step off the boat.
Come when the weather does.
Opening 1 February 2027. The diary is open now. Two nights or more.